Cream Eyelet-Band Crochet Beanie — An Original HookElla Pattern

About this independent pattern

This one-size adult beanie is crocheted from the crown down in joined rounds. The design uses a plain double-crochet crown, a pair of small eyelet bands, two understated horizontal ridges, and a short 1×1 post-stitch brim. Work it in one cream shade for a quiet, continuous look. For more hat ideas, browse HookElla’s crochet hats and beanies.

The public Ravelry listing for Marsha Sparks’s Foxy Nana Melissa Hat gives a 16-double-crochet by 10-row gauge over 10 cm, adult M/L/XL sizing, 190–225 yards, and a Baby Bee Sweet Delight #3 option using a 5 mm body hook and 4.5 mm brim hook. Its general metadata labels the yarn “Worsted (9 wpi),” while the description specifies #3/light-worsted yarn and also offers a #4 option. Those source details are not a substitute for the unavailable paid instructions. This HookElla pattern selects #3 yarn and develops its own stitch sequence and one-size count plan.

Materials

• Approximately 190–225 yards of smooth #3 DK or light-worsted yarn in cream. This is an estimate for this original design, not a measured amount.
• 5 mm H/8 crochet hook for the body.
• 4.5 mm (US 7) hook for the brim.
• Stitch marker, tapestry needle, scissors, and flexible measuring tape.

Choose a yarn with a soft hand and enough give for a comfortable hat. A smooth yarn makes the eyelet columns and small ridges easier to see.

Gauge, estimated finished size and fit

This is a single adult size intended for a head circumference around 55–57 cm (21.7–22.4 in), provided your fabric has comfortable stretch. These are calculated targets, not measured HookElla sample dimensions. The circumference is expected to be about 56 cm (22 in) at the stated gauge. Measure the recipient’s head and the actual fabric before finishing; the crown and round gauge can vary with yarn and personal tension.

The planning gauge is 16 dc and 10 rounds = 10 cm (4 in) in joined double-crochet fabric, measured relaxed and unstretched. This uses the public listing’s gauge as a starting reference, not as a HookElla measurement. Swatch in the round if possible, because joined-round tension can differ from a flat swatch. Work at least 16 dc across and 10 rounds, wash or relax the swatch as you plan to care for the hat, then measure the central 10 cm. Change hook size and reswatch if needed.

At that target, 90 stitches calculate to 56.25 cm (22.15 in) around. Nine crown rounds calculate to roughly 9 cm (3.5 in) of crown depth. For an overall-height estimate, assume the 17 dc/eyelet rounds average 1 cm each, the four hdc rounds average 0.8 cm each, and the three post-stitch rounds average 1 cm each: roughly 23.2 cm (9.1 in) from crown center to lower edge. Only the dc gauge is specified as a target; the shorter hdc-round height is an explicit planning assumption. All figures are theoretical and untested, and curved joined rounds may differ from a flat gauge square.

US abbreviations

• ch: chain
• dc: double crochet
• FPdc: front-post double crochet
• BPdc: back-post double crochet
• rnd: round
• sl st: slip stitch
• st/sts: stitch/stitches
• rep: repeat

Stitch guide

Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert the hook in the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through two loops, then yarn over and draw through the last two loops.

Half double crochet back loop only (hdc BLO): Yarn over, insert the hook under only the back top loop of the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through all three loops. This leaves the front loops visible as a fine horizontal ridge on the outside.

Eyelet repeat: Work dc in each of the next 2 stitches, ch 1, skip the next stitch. The skipped stitch and chain form one open space. On the next round, work one dc into each dc top and one dc into each chain space to return to the full stitch count.

Front-post double crochet (FPdc): Yarn over, insert the hook from front to back and back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then complete a dc in two draw-through steps.

Back-post double crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert the hook from back to front and front to back around the post of the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then complete a dc in two draw-through steps.

Pattern instructions

Use the 5 mm hook. Begin each round with ch 2; this chain is for height and does not count as a stitch. Join each round with a sl st into the first actual stitch, not into the starting chain. After joining, move the marker to the first stitch of the new round. Do not turn. Counts below exclude the starting chain.

Crown

• Round 1: Make an adjustable ring. Ch 2, work 10 dc into the ring, and join. 10 sts. Pull the ring closed firmly.
• Round 2: Ch 2, work 2 dc in each stitch around, and join. 20 sts.
• Round 3: Ch 2, repeat dc in the next stitch, 2 dc in the next stitch 10 times, and join. 30 sts.
• Round 4: Ch 2, repeat dc in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 dc in the next stitch 10 times, and join. 40 sts.
• Round 5: Ch 2, repeat dc in each of the next 3 stitches, 2 dc in the next stitch 10 times, and join. 50 sts.
• Round 6: Ch 2, repeat dc in each of the next 4 stitches, 2 dc in the next stitch 10 times, and join. 60 sts.
• Round 7: Ch 2, repeat dc in each of the next 5 stitches, 2 dc in the next stitch 10 times, and join. 70 sts.
• Round 8: Ch 2, repeat dc in each of the next 6 stitches, 2 dc in the next stitch 10 times, and join. 80 sts.
• Round 9: Ch 2, repeat dc in each of the next 7 stitches, 2 dc in the next stitch 10 times, and join. 90 sts.

The increase repeats distribute 10 increases evenly per round. After Round 9, the stitch count is 90 and remains constant through the body and brim.

Eyelet and ridge body

• Round 10: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, and join. 90 sts.
• Round 11: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, and join. 90 sts.
• Round 12 — eyelet band: Ch 2, repeat dc in the next 2 stitches, ch 1, skip the next stitch 30 times, and join to the first dc. This makes 60 dc and 30 chain spaces (90 positions).
• Round 13: Ch 2, dc in each dc and once in each chain space around, and join. 90 dc.
• Round 14: Ch 2, hdc in each stitch around, and join. 90 sts.
• Round 15 — ridge: Ch 2, hdc BLO in each stitch around, and join. 90 sts.
• Round 16: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, and join. 90 sts.
• Round 17: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, and join. 90 sts.
• Round 18 — eyelet band: Repeat Round 12. 60 dc and 30 chain spaces (90 positions).
• Round 19: Repeat Round 13, placing one dc in each dc and chain space. 90 dc.
• Round 20: Ch 2, hdc in each stitch around, and join. 90 sts.
• Round 21 — ridge: Ch 2, hdc BLO in each stitch around, and join. 90 sts.

Keep the yarn relaxed over the skipped stitches on eyelet rounds; tight chains can pull the bands inward. Each following round works into the chain spaces as well as the stitch tops, restoring 90 actual dc stitches.

Narrow post-stitch brim

Switch to the 4.5 mm hook. Keep the hat facing right side out. The 90-stitch count is even, so the 1×1 post repeat fits exactly.

• Round 22: Ch 2, repeat FPdc around the next stitch post, BPdc around the following stitch post 45 times, and join to the first FPdc. 90 post stitches.
• Round 23: Ch 2, work FPdc around each FPdc post and BPdc around each BPdc post from the previous round, and join. 90 sts.
• Round 24: Repeat Round 23. 90 sts.

The smaller hook and three rib rounds form a compact, integrated lower edge. Fasten off and weave in the tail on the inside.

Assembly, finishing and fit check

Lay the hat flat without stretching and measure around the brim. Compare its relaxed circumference and stretch to the wearer’s head measurement. The calculated target is about 56 cm (22 in), but the fabric must be checked on the actual yarn. If the body is too loose or tight, pause before the brim: a hook adjustment may help only if a new swatch confirms the stitch and round gauge. Do not change the 90-stitch count casually, because it also controls the crown and eyelet repeats.

Check that the crown lies smoothly without a flat disk, ruffling, or a pronounced point. A little cupping during the increase rounds is expected as a flat circle becomes a dome. If it puckers or flares strongly, recheck gauge and stitch placement rather than blocking the shape into place. Weave in ends securely without closing the eyelets.

Tips and troubleshooting

• The seam leans: Keep the joins in the same place and use a marker in the first actual stitch. Joined rounds can show a subtle jog; it is normal for this method.
• The eyelet repeat drifts: Each repeat consumes three stitch positions: two dc stitches and one skipped stitch replaced by a chain space. Work the next round once in every dc and once in every space.
• There are too many stitches: Check that the starting ch 2 was not counted and that each eyelet chain space received exactly one dc on the return round.
• The crown waves: Check that each increase round has exactly 10 increases and that the count rises by 10 from the previous round.
• The brim feels loose: The smaller hook is intended to firm it up. If the yarn has little stretch, measure the brim before fastening off and do not rely on the post rib alone to correct a large size mismatch.
• You want a different adult size: This written count plan is for one size. Resizing requires revisiting the crown diameter, 10-increase distribution, circumference, and eyelet repeat together; adding stitches only at the brim will distort the hat.

Frequently asked questions

Is this a copy of the Foxy Nana Melissa Hat?

No. This is a separately written HookElla pattern with an original 10-increase crown plan, two specified eyelet rounds, and an integrated post-stitch brim. It does not reproduce the paid pattern’s rows or claim to be the same design.

What size does this make?

It is planned for one adult size around 55–57 cm (21.7–22.4 in) head circumference, subject to your swatch and the yarn’s stretch. This has not been physically tested and is not a size range verified by a sample.

Why does the source listing mention two yarn weights?

Its general Ravelry metadata says “Worsted (9 wpi),” while the description names a #3/light-worsted Baby Bee Sweet Delight option and also gives a #4 alternative. For this independent version, use #3 DK/light-worsted yarn and swatch to the stated target; a #4 substitution is not guaranteed to fit.

Can I print the full pattern?

Yes. The printable version contains the complete materials, gauge, all 24 rounds, finishing, fit notes, and inspiration credit from this article.